I've been doing background tinkering on a potential low cost 3d printed, remote controlled tracked vehicle project, and to be frank it hasn't been going spectacularly until today — when I finally got a working powertrain assembled. To be clear this so far includes literally none of the track equipment, but I can just borrow that from someone else's project if I want to, and I probably will. This covers the other half of the equation, how to make the thing go.
CNN claims that Dolly Parton remained neutral in culture wars. It's true she was smart enough not to declare a party affiliation, but she made it quite clear that she did that for strategic reasons.
This is one of those things that should be obvious and findable anywhere right? But I had to look at five different search results! WTF!? Here is the formula:
=((LEFT(G5, SEARCH(":", G5)-1)*60)+RIGHT(G5, SEARCH(":", G5)-1))/60
Obvs change G5 to the correctly referenced cell.
I was recently prowling around looking for amusement and ran into Arknights: Endfield via a Let's Game it Out video, and I was sufficiently impressed by it that I felt compelled to write a little thing about it about how to get it running, and what its strengths and weaknesses are.
Installing ZMOD revealed a problem with my FlashForge Adventurer 5M which was either caused at the factory, during shipment (but the box is clean and shows no signs of mishandling) or my printer was a return that wasn't checked over before it was sent out again. This caused me to be unable to level the bed until I fixed it. The problem revealed itself as a "No Trigger on Probe After Full Movement" error during bed leveling.
I want to pick up where a failed print left off on my Adventurer 5M, but I'm running into the dreaded Timer Too Close (AKA "TTC") error from Klipper, which I know from errors shown on the Fluidd (web) interface instead of just having the system stop printing with no feedback like you get with the stock screen, because I am running the Forge-X mod.
My printer is a FlashForge Adventurer 5M. I got it for about $211 shipped, which is the only reason I bought this unit really. They seem to be hovering around $249 right now. In most ways I am very happy with it, but I ran into an irritating problem today.
I've been looking for a good source on 3d printer calibration, one better than the Orcaslicer page on the subject anyway, and I finally found a great video in straightforward English explaining a useful, working, proven process. Naturally, it was made by a German. Once again, if you'd rather have a video, go watch the video.
I have been 3d printing for a very short time, but I've already learned some stuff I wish I'd known earlier, and I'm going to write about it here now - both to benefit someone else who's just starting, and because I think it will be interesting to look back later and see how much I was or wasn't on the mark.